HeadAndShoulders

From Simreal

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In this sequence, I cast my wife's head and shoulders using alginate and plaster. You can find all of these materials in the SupplierLinks page.

This model was used to create a "dummy" out of hot-pour PVC, the same materials described in WetCorpse! I don't show these steps, but describe them after the picture series.

First, I want to apologize -- this section is an almost word-for-word clone of SeveredHead. I'm feeling lazy today...

Supplies

• Bald cap
• Plaster bandages (3" wide or so)
• Alginate
• Large bowl of water
• Bucket to mix alginate
• Mixing device
• Timer
• Helping hands

Starting

First, get all of your materials together. Cut your bandages, all of them, into about 18" lengths or so. Cut the ends off a few of those for small, detailed tasks like the nose.

Put a bald cap on your model and glue the edges with spirit gum or something.

Be sure that their clothes can be ruined. An alternative to ruining their clothes is to drape them with plastic, such as a large black garbage bag. Classy!

Set your bandages and the large bowl of water where they are handy and instruct your helpers.

Mold the Back

You will start with the back of the head. This area doesn't need much detail so you can do it directly with plaster. Be sure to put some vaseline or other release agent on any fuzzy bits that show! Plaster will grab hair, a lot.

Dip a length of plaster bandage in the water and fold it long-ways to make a thick narrow strip. Run it between two fingers to squeeze the extra water out of it. I always squeege my strips _flat_, so they don't get all tangled up.

Build a "frame" around the model's head, along the center of the shoulders, up over the center of the head, and across the back.

Now, fill in this frame with bandages. Dip a bandage in the water and fold it the other direction, making a shorter but still fairly thick bandage.

Add bandages until you have at least three layers. More is better than less! When in doubt, add another layer.

This stuff is going to get really heavy. The plaster on the shoulders, however, carries most of the weight so your model's neck doesn't strain too much.

Wait until the plaster is hard before going on. Plaster will heat up as it sets, so you can feel it getting warm. After the plaster feels cold and wet again you can go on to the next step.

Mold the Front

Plaster Frame

Remember when you framed the back of the head? Now you repeat that on the front.

Before you start, thoroughly lubricate the front edge of the back piece with a thick petroleum jelly -- be bold and daring, since you really do _not_ want the two plaster shells to stick to each other.

Run three or more layers of narrow plaster strips along the front of your model. Allow to set.

This provides some support for the alginate.

Alginate

Mix and quickly apply alginate all over the front of your model, in the space between the back shell and lightly overlapping the frame in front.

This process is shown in a little more detail in SeveredHead. I use the timer to help keep track of when the alginate is going to harden.

Plaster Shell

Now make a plaster shell over the alginate. This is the same process you used to make the back shell.

Be sure to overlap this shell on to the front frame and over the back shell. You want it to stick to the frame, but you do not want it to stick to the back!

Allow this to harden.

Remove

Carefully pry along the front/back shell seam. You want to separate the layers.

Now have your model lean forward and wiggle their face to try and release the alginate from their skin. While they are doing this, you be sure to support the plaster shell!

You can slowly release and peel the alginate in its shell off of the model.

In some cases, you may need to remove the shell first and then pull the alginate off (gently! it's fragile!). Re-unite the alginate with its shell.

Alginate shrinks as it dries, so you can keep it stable by laying damp paper towels over it.

Cast

Put the two shells together and support them with the opening to the top.

Mix up a large quanity of plaster, to the consistency of heavy cream (or whatever). Be sure to bang on the bucket a lot to remove bubbles.

Carefully pour the plaster into the mold.

I'm not very good at this yet -- I get too many bubbles -- so I often have to repair my casting with clay.

Using it...

From this plaster positive, I built another latex mold (with plaster shell).

I then used this to make a hot-pour PVC head skin! I took the latex mold and shell and assembled it, holding it shut with duct tape. I then poured the hot plastic into it, swirling it around to get an even layer. After doing this a couple of times, a thick skin was built up.

I then slipped this over a 4th quality Bucky skull. The result was actually hideous... it's better to cast around the skull!

We called this monstrosity "Madge". This year, we took her apart and salvaged her skeleton.